Planning and marking the line
Before any digging starts, the crew walks the property line with you to confirm where the fence will go. They locate underground utility lines by calling the local one-call service so no gas, water, or electric lines are hit. Flags or spray paint mark the post locations, gates, and corners based on the layout you agreed on.
Your contractor should also check local setback rules and property boundaries. If there is any question about where your land ends, it is smart to have a recent survey on hand. The crew sets up string lines to keep the fence straight and uses a level to make sure the posts will stand plumb. This planning stage takes an hour or two but prevents mistakes that are hard to fix later.
Setting the posts in concrete
Post holes are dug with an auger to the depth required by your soil and frost line. In Round Rock, that usually means holes at least two feet deep for a six-foot fence. The crew places the post in the hole, checks it for plumb with a level in two directions, and pours concrete around it. The concrete is mixed on site from bagged mix and water.
The concrete needs time to cure before the fence panels or pickets are attached. That is why many installs happen over two days: one day for digging and setting posts, and a second day for the rest of the work. Good crews brace each post with temporary boards to keep it straight while the concrete sets. If a post leans after the concrete hardens, the whole fence will be off.
Installing rails and pickets
Once the posts are solid, the crew attaches horizontal rails between them. For wood fences, two or three rails run from post to post. These are nailed or screwed into the posts, and the pickets are then fastened to the rails. The crew spaces pickets evenly, using a spacer block to keep gaps consistent. Each picket is checked for level as it goes up.
For chain link fences, the top rail runs through loops on the posts and is connected with sleeves. The mesh is unrolled along the line, stretched tight with a come-along tool, and attached to the posts and rail with ties. The bottom of the mesh is anchored with tension wire so animals cannot push under. Gates are hung last, with hinges and latches adjusted so they swing freely.
Gates and hardware adjustments
Gates are the most used part of any fence, so they need to be built and hung carefully. The crew installs the gate frame on heavy-duty hinges, then adds the same pickets or mesh as the rest of the fence. A diagonal brace inside the gate frame keeps it from sagging over time. The latch and drop rod are positioned so the gate closes tight and stays shut.
After the gate is hung, the crew tests it several times. They check that the latch catches without force, that the gate does not drag on the ground, and that it opens fully without binding. If the ground slopes, the bottom of the gate may be cut at an angle to follow the grade. A well-hung gate should operate smoothly for years with just occasional lubrication.
Cleanup and final walkthrough
A professional crew does not leave your yard full of debris. They pick up scrap lumber, empty concrete bags, wire ties, and any fasteners that dropped on the ground. The post holes are backfilled and the turf is patted down. If the auger left mud on the driveway, it gets hosed off before the crew leaves.
Before the truck pulls away, the crew walks the entire fence line with you. They point out any areas where the grade changes or where a picket has a knot. They show you how the gate latch works and remind you when the concrete is fully cured. This is your chance to ask questions and make sure everything matches what you agreed to.